In the late 1980s, fashion magazines embodied luxury. Every page of Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar reflected wealth, elegance, and a kind of untouchable perfection. But as the 1990s arrived, a new generation of readers wanted something different and real. Youth culture was shifting away from glossy fantasy and toward authenticity, creativity, and rebellion. This movement gave rise to magazines like i-D and The Face, publications that would redefine fashion by celebrating individuality and the everyday lives of young people. Their success eventually forced legacy media to evolve and adapt to the new cultural tone.
i-D, founded in 1980 by Terry Jones, broke every rule of traditional fashion publishing. Instead of airbrushed models and carefully posed glamour shots, i-D embraced imperfection. It pioneered the DIY aesthetic, featured street-cast models, and highlighted the creativity of ordinary people. Each issue captured the chaotic energy of youth: raw, playful, and unfiltered.
Meanwhile, The Face became a cultural touchstone for British nightlife. It combined music, art, and style, showcasing the underground scenes that defined a generation. Influenced by grunge, punk, and rave culture, these magazines reflected the true rhythm of the streets rather than the fantasy world of fashion elites. They made readers feel like they could be part of fashion too.
YOU are the visual!
i-D, founded in 1980 by Terry Jones, broke every rule of traditional fashion publishing. Instead of airbrushed models and carefully posed glamour shots, i-D embraced imperfection. It pioneered the DIY aesthetic, featured street-cast models, and highlighted the creativity of ordinary people. Each issue captured the chaotic energy of youth: raw, playful, and unfiltered.
Meanwhile, The Face became a cultural touchstone for British nightlife. It combined music, art, and style, showcasing the underground scenes that defined a generation. Influenced by grunge, punk, and rave culture, these magazines reflected the true rhythm of the streets rather than the fantasy world of fashion elites. They made readers feel like they could be part of fashion too.
YOU are the visual!
No figure represented this shift better than Kate Moss. Discovered at just 14 in 1988, Moss went on to redefine 1990s beauty with her “heroin chic” look: thin, pale, and androgynous, with messy hair and minimal makeup. It was a stark contrast to the glamorous supermodels of the previous decade, like Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Linda Evangelista.
While “heroin chic” was controversial and rightly criticized for glamorizing unhealthy lifestyles, it captured the raw, lived-in realism that magazines like i-D and The Face had been promoting. Moss’s look connected with young people who saw themselves in her, not as polished icons, but imperfect, expressive individuals. Her style soon influenced fashion editorials globally and changed the course of modeling forever.
While “heroin chic” was controversial and rightly criticized for glamorizing unhealthy lifestyles, it captured the raw, lived-in realism that magazines like i-D and The Face had been promoting. Moss’s look connected with young people who saw themselves in her, not as polished icons, but imperfect, expressive individuals. Her style soon influenced fashion editorials globally and changed the course of modeling forever.
By the mid-to-late ’90s, the underground became impossible to ignore. Vogue, Vanity Fair, and other legacy magazines began adopting the raw, street-inspired aesthetics that once belonged only to the youth press. High fashion merged with streetwear, grunge, and club culture. Photographers like Juergen Teller and Corinne Day brought candid, emotional realism into glossy spreads. The fashion world had finally learned that imperfection could be beautiful and that authenticity could sell.
The 1990s transformed fashion from something distant and exclusive into something participatory and expressive. Modeling was no longer about perfection or privilege; it was about attitude, individuality, and story. The decade laid the foundation for today’s creative culture, where indie magazines, social media, and digital zines continue to champion personal style and real-world perspectives.
The 90s didn’t just change how fashion looked; it changed who fashion was for.
The 1990s transformed fashion from something distant and exclusive into something participatory and expressive. Modeling was no longer about perfection or privilege; it was about attitude, individuality, and story. The decade laid the foundation for today’s creative culture, where indie magazines, social media, and digital zines continue to champion personal style and real-world perspectives.
The 90s didn’t just change how fashion looked; it changed who fashion was for.
